Tuesday, 29 September 2015

on writing differently ...

Bedfellows: the time and matter of two fake deaths


“At about 11 a.m. ET on Friday (September 25, 2015), our beloved director Woody Allen passed away. Woody Allen was born on December 1, 1935 in New York. He will be missed but not forgotten. Please show your sympathy and condolences by commenting on and liking this page.”

Facebook page to commemorate the death of Woody Allen …   http://en.mediamass.net/people/woody-allen/deathhoax.html


The subject of this text arose from an afternoon in the Metropolitan Museum in New York in the summer of 2015 and the opportunity to look at and write about art with which I was unfamiliar. With it came the chance to write in a different way to normative historical writing, to write mainly about art’s formal components – its capacity to mean something just through the selection of the raw stuff at the artists’ disposal - without too much recourse to textual sources, and to think about the interstices between art and writing.  

The first of the two works in question is anonymous, a small, finely crafted, sixteenth century terracotta made in France in the sixteenth century showing the death – or more specifically, the dormition - of the Virgin Mary. The other, more recent, much larger picture also shows another immanent death. Here, blood pours from the head of an anonymous prone male figure as he seemingly breathes his last. The picture measures around two by three metres and was made in 1970 by the twentieth century American painter, Philip Guston.

On reflection, the two works were part of a curious calculus: they had something in common and where they had nothing in common, they really had nothing in common at all, each respectively repelling and attracting the other with the force of their own similarity and difference. In this sense, they were, both literally and figuratively, bedfellows, two characters caught napping in once different and now similar circumstances, both brought together by the redemptive cloak of art. (In this sense we might see the museum as misericordia, doing the job of the Virgin’s gown, offering sanctuary to the myriad pictures that gather within.) 

Let’s start with a striking similarity. Neither of the two subjects is really dead. According to Catholic doctrine, the Virgin Mary doesn’t die; she simply enters a period of suspended existence, a sleep or dormition. We know this because she is conceived without concupiscence and at her passing from this world sleeps uncorrupted before ascending a few weeks later to her Son’s side, whereupon she assumes the role of Queen of Heaven, Christ’s bride. Her course from one condition to the other is cat’s cradle like in its theology and is discussed at length by the early Christian Fathers. It gets taken up again by theologians in sixteenth century France and Germany, and it is upon this reference that our dormition draws.

At the exact moment shown in the Metropolitan’s terracotta, Mary is largely of this world rather than the next, an old woman, her face drawn and wrinkled. But the next world clearly beckons. Time, space and matter are already buckling under the weight of the prescience of this event, a buckling that shapes and twists the terracotta. Mary is given notice of her passage into heaven by the same angel who announces her pregnancy and in this her final moment all but one of the Apostles – Thomas –  take time out of their Pentecostal mission to rally to her bedside. They come from far and wide and arrive with miraculous speed. Each somehow finds his space around Mary’s bed, twisting in an out of the pliable clay interior, pushing bedposts, arches and pilasters to find sufficient room. Over time, even the clay struggles to keep pace as it too cracks and the components of the picture warp. We have, then, within the dormition a doubled time: the twisting time of the event itself (the mustering of Apostles and angels) and the material time of the clay as it dries and twists over its six hundred year history. Not least we have the doubled time of the spectator: the time of the Catholic Church and now the time of art. 

Like the Virgin, Guston’s subject is also in some form suspended state but we know this only from clues in the picture rather than religious dogma. The picture is ambiguously titled Stationery Figure. It is not moving. Despite its thanatosic pose, the figure is clearly living. It draws on a cigarette, the intake of oxygen making the tip glow red while a small, cartoon like cloud of smoke hovers above. (By way of a theological footnote, the late Apostle Thomas was said to have arrived late at the Virgin’s bedside on a cloud such as this.) Our second figure, then, is not dead but acting badly, playing possum, a stage corpse taking time out between scene changes. A hint of the time of the event is given by the clock in the picture’s background: it seems to take place in the early hours of the morning – sometime before 1.30 a.m. - although the calibrations on the clock face are difficult to read. At least fourteen divisions can be seen and some are partially eclipsed by the prone figure. It is also possible to see the night sky through a small window in the picture’s background. In this sense, then, the Virgin and the Stationery Figure are both poised on a chronological margin: poised waiting in a backstage time of a suspended performance.
 
What of the two works’ facture? The dormition is made with evident skill. The clay is pressed into describing the event in painstaking detail from the texture of Mary’s skin to the decorative detail on the pitcher by her bedside, from the carefully delineated pages of a Gospel to the ionic pilaster visible behind the bedpost to the right. The artist of the dormition also knows his art history: the images of the Apostles take their lead from various forms of Roman portraiture, some classical and idealising, others more realistic. The Apostle on the far left  looks like a pugnacious Vespasian from the first century when Romans gave up idealism. In stark contrast to the level of detail, skill and labour invested in the Dormition, Guston seems to know nothing. His work is crude, clumsily drawn, badly painted and poorly composed. There is nothing in the selection of colours – pinks, whites, greys and reds - that could possibly suggest any hint of harmony, informed selection or taste. However, this may also be a choice conditioned by the time of another dormition. These are the colours of the slaughterhouse, the colours of greying fat, blood and flesh, not of decomposition but not of life either.  This is the matter of death as it is caught between a moment, the absence of life and the point of putrefaction. If this is the case, we can quickly find our way back to the dormition because these are the colours so abjured by Mary’s immaculate condition. We have, then, flesh in two kinds of suspended animation, one immaculate, the other the death of the freezer cabinet. Again, the two figures are both inscribed with a new kind of time, a time of suspension.

There are also curious connections in the two works’ composition. In step with Guston’s wilfully clumsy drawing, is an equally clumsy composition. Components of the picture make way for one another flattening the picture into a relief.  The bulb, the light switch, the smoke, hand and window find space for one another in a way with which the sculptor of the dormition might again sympathise. On closer inspection the body doesn’t eclipse the clock face, the clock presses onto the body: time weighs on Guston’s figure.  

Although the two works have something in common – they share comparable subjects, they address the subject of time, and not least, they are both art - the contexts from which they draw their references are very different. The Dormition takes as its point of reference from the spiritual preoccupations of the northern European late medieval world, one in which intense spiritually is articulated through close observation. By contrast, Guston’s world is one largely of his own making and his point of reference is not art by way of theology – but art for art, prepositionally turned in on itself like most of the art in the Met and most art in museums. There are clues to what is going on but we need to look back at Guston’s troubled course through American art to find them. In the 1930s and 40s, he made the transition from a socially and politically engaged figurative art to Abstract Expressionism. The final part of his career marked a return to figurative art for which his was vilified by many art critics and it is in his early work that we can start to find some points of iconographical reference: an interest in surreal forms particularly in the metaphysical painting of Giorgio de Chirico. But Guston’s points of references are still largely personal; in fact, they are personal twice over: once as modernism (with its concern with art’s autonomy, its locus of meaning solely in the person of its maker) and again as a wilful personal rejection of what became American modernism’s house style - Abstract Expressionism. Guston, like his friend the author Philip Roth, were both rejected by the art establishment for injecting vulgarity into the academy. Again the offence is doubled: the picture is vulgar because of its facture - this is a horrible scene, horribly painted - and vulgar purely by way of it containing figuration at all, at least from the vantage point of a modernist aesthetic of 1970.   

By way of a conclusion another kind of time conditions our two works. Guston eventually runs out of paint. His signature rests not on the bottom of the painting – presumably the limits of the picture’s mise-en-scène - but on the lateral band of pale pink that doesn’t quite make it to the canvas’s lower edge. The dormition doesn’t quite make it either. This may be a sketch for a work in alabaster, a pliable, expressive but unforgiving medium that fixes its subject not in the transitional stuff of clay but in the dead matter of stone.  


Steven Adams





Friday, 18 September 2015

The Comic Electric: Symposium Information

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The Comic Electric: A Digital Comics Symposium will be held at The University of Hertfordshire on Wednesday 14th October 2015. As part of the symposium the Electricomics team will be sharing the findings of our research project. Invited participants will also be presenting papers across a wide range of topics that relate to comics scholarship and digital media. The symposium is free to attend but space is limited, so you’ll need to reserve a seat via our Eventbrite page. The schedule for the day is as follows:

 9.30Arrival, coffee & tea
10.00Electricomics Keynote
11.00Break
11.15Panel 1: Audience & Transmedia
 Liz DowthwaiteWhen Things Go Wrong, When Things Go Right: Meaningful Interactions Between Webcomics Creators and Readers
 Vitor Blotta &
Bruno Conrado
Breaking the Frame: New Narratives and Formats for Graphic Novels, Journalism and Human Rights through Digital Comics in Brazil
 Zak WaiparaOtea: Transmission and Transmedia
12.35Lunch
13.20Panel 2: Digital Techniques
 Pablo DefendiniStandards, semantics, and sequential art: towards a digital comics praxis.
 Dave CraneDigital Workflows for Rapid Improvisation of Comics, Labour Saving Devices, Time & Motion Studies
 Marcus Pullen &
Dr. Blair Dickinson
Experiments in the use of human behaviour monitoring to develop motion comic content for the Social Media Generation.
14.40Break
14.55Panel 3: Author, Reader, Player
 Miju YohA New Page Layout Strategy for Comic Books on Tablets: Focused on Author-led Time and Space Agency
 Jayms NicholsAbsorption and Flow: How Active and Passive Readings Allow for Different Forms of Emersion in Digital Comics
 Matt FinchPlay, Chance, and Comics: Games and self-directed learning
16.15Break
16.30Panel 4: Motion
 Fredrik RysjedalComics >< Film
 Brad YarhouseComic Media in New Mediums: Dancing on the Head of Closure
 James AbbottMotion and sound: Unnecessary adornments of the medium, or essentials for fuller comic book immersion?
 Craig SmithMotion Comics and Motion Books: The role of animation and interactivity within digital comic aesthetics and systems
6.10Evening reception

The symposium will be taking place in room 1B07 in The Film Music & Media (FMM) building on the College Lane Campus of The University of Hertfordshire. If you’re traveling to the conference by public transport, then the nearest train station is at Hatfield, which is about a 10 minute bus journey from the campus. Parking is available for those travelling by car, but you’ll need to arrange a parking permit with the organisers (details on this will be provided with your Eventbrite e-mail confirmation).

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The Comic Electric is a joint symposium between three of the School of Creative Art’s research groups; TVAD (Theorising Visual Arts and Design), G+VERL (Games and Visual Effects Research Lab) and The Media Research Group. It is held in conjunction with the DARE (Digital Arts Research Education) research centre at the UCL Institute of Education.

Friday, 17 July 2015

DHeritage, the Professional Doctorate in Heritage is offering two Bursaries for October 2015


The School of Creative Arts at the University of Hertfordshire works with the Schools of Humanities, Business, Education and Law in the delivery of a unique Professional Doctorate in Heritage, DHeritage. The Programme Director is Dr Grace Lees-Maffei who works across the School of Humanities and the School of Creative Arts. DHeritage is currently advertising two fees-only bursaries for students enrolling in October 2015.
 

About the DHeritage:
Heritage flourishes at local, national and international levels where it takes many forms and its contribution to community building, economic prosperity, cultural adaptation and a sense of belonging is widely recognised. It is a dimension of all spheres of human activity and lends itself to study across disciplinary boundaries. Public history is emerging as a field concerned with the many ways the past is put to use in the present.

The Doctorate in Heritage (DHeritage) is a broad-based, flexible qualification aimed at professionals who work in or desire to work in the heritage field broadly defined, whether in the private or the public sector. It will interest those who are employed in tourism, planning, museums, archives, community history, archaeology, and social and cultural sustainability. It will appeal to practitioners who want to reflect on and contribute to the latest thinking in what is a dynamic and ever-changing sector crucial to many economies and to local and national identities.

Developed in association with experts from across the sector, the DHeritage programme aims to integrate scholarship on a whole range of interdisciplinary themes, including professional ethics, sustainability, cultural memory and heritage policy. Students will follow the programme as part of a cohort, supported by research training and supervision shaped to their needs from across the disciplines of History, Education, Digital Humanities, Creative Writing, Creative Arts, Law, Business, and Tourism. Students will be able to select their topic and training according to individual needs and interests, and current developments in the field.



Applications are now invited.

Requirements:
Entry qualifications are assessed on an individual basis. Normally participants will have: an Honours degree or equivalent; a relevant Masters Degree and five years relevant professional experience. Candidates without a Masters degree will need to demonstrate an equivalent level of accomplishment through professional practice, based on appropriate professional training (e.g. Associate Membership of the Museums Association). Candidates for whom English is not their first language will require certification of English language competence (minimum IELTS 6.5, preferably higher). At admission, candidates will be allocated a Principal and one or two Second Supervisors based on the research area they have set out in their Research Proposal and in their interviews.

The DHeritage mode of study is part-time, over six years. Fees for 2015/16 are £2300 per annum. 

Bursaries are available:
Bursaries for two students enrolling in October 2015 are now advertised. The bursaries are fees-only, which means that they will cover the annual tuition fees of £2300. The bursaries are guaranteed for three years and will be reviewed at the three year point. If candidates satisfy an assessment panel of their progress and funds are available the bursaries will be renewed for a further three years.

Application details:
More information about the DHeritage is available on our website http://www.herts.ac.uk/courses/doctorate-in-heritage

For details of how to apply please contact: Dr Janice Turner, Social Sciences, Arts and Humanities Research Institute, ssahri.res@herts.ac.uk

Closing Date for applications: Friday 14th August, 2015
Interviews will be held on Friday 4th September, 2015
Start date: October 2015, for six years’ part-time study.

For further information about the DHeritage, please contact Dr Grace Lees-Maffei, Director, DHeritage: g.lees-maffei@herts.ac.uk


Friday, 19 June 2015

New WVC issue: Between Texts and Cities



Between Texts and Cities” was prompted by a suggestion by Grace Lees-Maffei that Michael Heilgemeir and I guest-edit an issue of Writing Visual Culture, the journal of the TVAD research group. The issue is part of our joint project Texts+Cities, an exploration of the relations between texts and urban spaces in contemporary societies. We both have a keen interest in contemporary cities and urban issues: Michael’s book The Nomadic Studio explores temporary artist-led spaces and their role within the redevelopment of cities, and my research is on urban regeneration, focusing on London Docklands and the Greenwich Peninsula.

Fig. 1: Michael Heilgemeir (2013): The Nomadic Studio.

Our first Texts+Cities activity was the seminar Texts/Cities: From the 1970s to the Present, which took place at the University of Hertfordshire in January 2014. In conceiving the seminar, Michael and I were guided by a number of questions:

·       How do urban spaces relate to artistic, political, or economic texts and ideologies, and vice-versa?

·       What transformations occur between the designing and imaging of urban spaces, and the building and eventual inhabiting of those spaces?

·       How do the technologies employed in designing and imaging architectural and urban spaces (computer modelling and simulation, CGI renderings of future buildings, etc.) contribute to the ‘idea’ or representations of a city?

·       In what ways can Big Data, New Media, and Imaging Technologies influence understanding of, and policies within cities?


Poster for seminar Texts/Cities: From the 1970s to the Present, University of Hertfordshire, 2014. Poster design: Michael Heilgemeir; photograph: Hong Kong 2003 © Daniel Marques Sampaio.


The exploratory nature of the seminar enabled us to identify the central issues on which to focus, and the present issue of Writing Visual Culture springs from that process. Our call for papers for the issue produced responses from scholars within an interdisciplinary range of humanities, social sciences, art, design, and media practices.


Between Texts and Cities
 (WVC # 6) cover. Design and photograph © Michael Heilgemeir.

The seven contributions in “Between Texts and Cities” were selected from abstracts received from the UK, the USA, Belgium, Canada, Germany, India, Malaysia, Russia, and South Africa. Our imaginations were sparked by their themes: cityscapes of exclusion; liminal, interstitial spaces between city and country; places of refuge for sexual and racial minorities; modernist utopian designs ill-equipped to respond to the dynamics of contemporary Capitalism; imagined cities that amplified traits of existing ones to the point of entropy.

These all related to the concerns outlined in our call for papers. However, the variety of approaches and the specificities of some of their cultural and geographical settings required us to contextualise them very carefully in relation to our project. In this we benefited enormously from our conversations with Susan Parham, Head of Urbanism at the Centre for Sustainable Communities here at the University of Hertfordshire. Susan’s comments and advice were always given in a spirit of openness and generosity, and we enjoyed immensely working with her.

I invite readers (shameless plug alert!) to have a look at the Introduction to the issue, which sets out a context for the papers within the thematic scope of the Texts+Cities project. That context invokes the literal and metaphorical ruins of Modernism’s urban utopias, and the emergence of a new political and economic configuration in the wake of the structural crises of Capitalism of the 1970s. Naturally, such context, “narrative arc” even, is only one of many possible contexts, and we welcome debate on alternative ways of reading this issue.

A final note on the issue: there are two versions of “Between Texts and Cities” on the TVAD website. The first version follows the prevailing model of digital delivery in journal publishing, whereby journal articles within an issue can be accessed individually as pdfs. If you need to print an individual article, that’s the place to go (mind the trees!).

In addition to this, we have brought all the papers together in a single volume, soon to be uploaded on the WVC site. Michael designed and produced photographs for the volume, which is designed to be read/viewed/studied/devoured on screens/tablets. This second version aims to preserve the papers’ place in the wider context of the issue (that “narrative arc”), and emphasise the dialogue between the articles. We also intend it to explore a bit more the visual side we have always felt is a strong aspect of the Texts+Cities project, in an attractive publication that hopefully will help us communicate the project in future activities.


Daniel Marques Sampaio


Reframing Spaces: A pedagogic provocation from the School of Creative Arts

Exhibition Open: Tuesday 23rd June to Thursday 25th June, 9:30am – 7:30pm

Venue: Art and Design Gallery, University of Hertfordshire, College Lane Campus, Hatfield, AL10 9EU
Admission: Free

Reframing Spaces is an exhibition designed to illuminate some current issues around pedagogy and to share different approaches to practice led by staff in the School of Creative Arts, at the University of Hertfordshire, including TVAD researchers. Acknowledging that education is constructed within a context of performativity, the work explores how limiting frames can be challenged to enable students to engage wholeheartedly in learning. Staff can create spaces and use materials to enable students to reframe their expectations and understandings of how they will engage in learning in the creative arts. Materials that have been developed and used with students will be available for critique.

Reframing Spaces identifies that spaces themselves may need to be reframed if staff are to collaborate to create a rich learning environment for students. Dialogic spaces for colleagues to share and mutually challenge ways of thinking and acting are essential for professional learning. The exhibition shows three approaches to using non-traditional spaces and approaches to enable staff to engage in dialogue and construction together. Research, scholarship and critical reflection on pedagogy are shown in the exhibition in visual form.

The exhibition itself brings into the public space an account of emerging, difficult-to-quantify change in professional practice. Making visible the work in this new way offers opportunities for the learning community to continue to shape its own agenda around the development of practice and to provoke others to do the same.

Reframing Spaces Exhibition Tours
Colleagues interested in the development of learning and teaching are invited to participate in tours of the exhibition led by staff members including Rebecca Thomas (exhibition curator) Ivan Philips, Associate Dean Learning and Teaching in the School of Creative Arts, and Joy Jarvis, Professor of Educational Practice. Participants will be able to discuss the approaches to L&T development represented and the resources being created for induction, and consider any connections with their own work and context.
Exhibition Tour Times:
Tuesday 23rd June, 9.30, 11.30, 2.30 and 6.00
Wednesday 24th June, 4.30 and 6.00
Thursday 25th June. 2.30 and 4.30
Venue: Art and Design Gallery.

Please contact Rebecca Thomas r.thomas@herts.ac.uk for further information.


Tuesday, 16 June 2015

The Comic Electric: A Digital Comics Symposium

The Comic Electric   

Call for Participation


Led by renowned comic writers Leah and Alan Moore, The Electricomics project launched in May 2014 with funding from The Digital R&D Fund for the Arts. Now, as the project nears the conclusion of its initial research and development stage, we seek to establish a new academic symposium through which to share our findings and expand discussion and debate around the field of digital comics research.

The Comic Electric: A Digital Comics Symposium will be held at The University of Hertfordshire on Wednesday 14th October 2015. As part of this symposium participants are sought to present papers across a wide range of topics that relate to comics scholarship and digital media. Appropriate subject areas include:

  • New and emergent digital comic forms and technologies.
  • Changes to the underlying structures of the form as a result of digital mediation.
  • Crossovers, adaptation and hybridisation between comics and other digital media.
  • Acts of reading and the impact of digital mediation.
  • Aesthetic and literary analysis of digital comic narratives.
  • Digital distribution, changes in the industry and the threat of piracy.
  • Webcomics, widening readerships, minority voices and fan cultures.
  • Multimodality and comics relationship with larger transmedia narratives.

Other areas relevant to the study of digital comics will also be considered. Abstracts of no more than 300 words for papers of 20 minutes in length should be submitted via e-mail to Daniel Merlin Goodbrey and Alison Gazzard at electric@e-merl.com by Monday 27th July 2015. If you have any questions about the symposium or need clarification on any aspect of this call for participation, please also contact us via the above e-mail address.

The Comic Electric 

About Electricomics


The focus of the Electricomics project has been the creation of a new digital comic anthology app and an open source toolkit for the creation of digital comics. Towards this goal, the project has examined how the language, tropes and production processes of traditional comics are impacted by digital technologies. Our research has also explored how an easy to use and openly available toolset might facilitate content creation both in the comics sector and amongst a wider arts community.

Electricomics is collaborative project between arts, technology and research partners. Arts partner Orphans of The Storm was founded by comic writer Alan Moore and film director and producer Mitch Jenkins. Technology partner Ocasta studios are responsible for the creation of the Electricomics app and comic creation toolset. The research partners on the project are Alison Gazzard from the London Knowledge Lab at the UCL Institute of Education and Daniel Merlin Goodbrey from the University of Hertfordshire’s School of Creative Arts.

The Comic Electric is a joint symposium between three of the School of Creative Art’s research groups; TVAD (Theorising Visual Arts and Design), G+VERL (Games and Visual Effects Research Lab) and The Media Research Group. It is held in conjunction with the DARE (Digital Arts Research Education) research centre at the UCL Institute of Education.

The Comic Electric 

About the Digital R&D Fund for the Arts


The Digital R&D fund for the Arts is a £7 million fund to support collaboration between organisations with arts projects, technology providers, and researchers. It is a partnership between Arts Council England (www.artscouncil.org.uk), Arts and Humanities Research Council (www.ahrc.ac.uk) and Nesta (www.nesta.org.uk).

We want to see projects that use digital technology to enhance audience reach and/or develop new business models for the arts sector. With a dedicated researcher or research team as part of the three-way collaboration, learning from the project can be captured and disseminated to the wider arts sector. Every project needs to identify a particular question or problem that can be tested. Importantly this question needs to generate knowledge for other arts organisations that they can apply to their own digital strategies.


Lottery Funded

Wednesday, 13 May 2015

The masculinization of dressing up

‘Dressing-up’ has often been seen as a gendered activity. In particular, costuming – the design and creation of costumes – has been viewed as a female pursuit. However, Barbara Brownie's latest article, recently published in Clothing Cultures (vol. 2, no. 2), explores contemporary events and artefacts which frame dressing-up in contexts that are more acceptable to male audiences. As a result, a new generation of men are becoming more engaged with costume.





If costume can be justified as a functional object, particularly in that is associated with the very masculine act of combat, it can be distanced from feminine acts of vanity, and childish acts of play. Historical and military reenactment invites participants to consider clothing not as frivolous fashion items but as the tools of war, and a means of recording history. In multiplayer online games (such as World of Warcraft), the dressing and preparation of the avatar is a significant part of the player’s gaming experience. Fron et al. (2004) observe that male gamers devote a lot of time and effort into developing their costume, justified by their use of terminology such as ‘gear’ rather than ‘costume’. Such terminology suggests that the avatar’s wardrobe is primarily a matter of function rather than style. These environments introduce quantifiable measures of a costume's success - including numerical scores for effectiveness in battle scenarios, or point-by-point assessment of authenticity.



The notion of costume as functional object has also made the practice of dressing-up more acceptable to mainstream cinema audiences. Christopher Nolan took great pains to justify Bruce Wayne’s costume in his recent cinema incarnations of Batman (The Dark Knight, 2008, and its sequels), in which the Batman costume is depicted as pseudo-utilitarian. The superhero genre also presents numerous masculine characters actively involved in the design and creation of costume, including Spider Man, who is seen sewing his own suit. In the domestic space of his aunt’s home. In sci-fi and fantasy fandom, fans acquire cultural capital through the design and creation of costume. Through accuracy and authenticity in costume, a cosplayer may position himself as an authority. The organized ‘masquerades’ that take place at cosplay events add a masculine element of competition to this traditionally feminine act.

Barbara's article identifies contemporary influences on the perception of the wearing and construction of costume, particularly with regards to costume as an expression of masculine ideals. It discusses the costume as a marker of hypermasculinity, authority, or preparedness, and identifies how traditionally feminine domestic spaces and activities have been co-opted by a new generation of males. It presents domestic activities such as sewing as rites-of-passage on the path towards masculinity.